A new adventure!

I'm off to crew for Funder's very first 100!!!!!  On her TN Walker!!!!! :)

What we won't tell Funder is that it's my first time crewing.  Ever.  Never mind a 100. 

I'm so excited. 

My car is packed absolutely full (did I remember my crazy creek chair? mmm......)

 

Tess insists there is still room for a puppy but it is not to be so.......She won't be going with me on this adventure.  

 

We are traveling all the way to Oregon to ride this 100 because it is the most suitable one on this side of the country for a first 100 on her mare, Dixie. 

Let me tell you why you should be as excited about this ride, and the partnership between Funder and Dixie ("Team Fixie"), as I am.  

For me, the next best thing to be doing endurance rides is watching Funder and Dixie do them.  I'm not sure why, but I think it has to do with the fact that her struggles with Dixie are a lot like my struggles with Minx (for new readers, my now deceased Standardbred) and Funder is totally doing everything RIGHT, while I did it WRONG. If you are starting out in endurance on a non-arab and want to see someone that did this whole thing RIGHT and is actually have success doing it......check out Funder's blog.

And then there's the fun fact that just a couple of years ago Funder SWORE that she would NEVER do endurance.....she just liked reading all those crazy endurance blogs.  And then she was going to ride an LD, but probably not a 50, and NEVER a 100.  And now this weekend I get to crew for her first 100.  

Watching her finish this weekend will be better than completing Tevis next month.  

Funder works her A$$ off to do what she's doing with Dixie, and there's so little room for error to do the longer distances on a non-arab.  

There's more to this amazing story from how she got Dixie, to who Dixie is, to the circumstances that led up to Dixie being Funder's primary endurance horse.  Please help me cheer on and encourage Team Fixie over at Funder's blog and stay tuned for my thoughts on crewing a 100 :).  

What's in a first aid kit - Equine

I finally made it out to the stable AND remembered to photograph my first aid kit......

My Horse kit
Because my trailer gets even hotter than the place I keep my tack, and because I don't use my trailer more than a handful of times in a year, I keep my first aid kit in a box that travels between my tack area and to the trailer when I take a trip. 

In the box (which is a plastic file box) I have:
- various sizes of towels/dishcloths (in the blue bag/secondary container)
- Feminine pads for bandages
- Ziplock of cotton balls
- Bute tablets
- Betadine scrub (the alcohol based one)
- Surpass in a plastic bag (bag is needed for application)
- dosing syringes (not pictured)

 I keep all my leg wrapping supplies in a duffel bag that travels from the tack room to the trailer as needed too.  In this duffel I keep:
- polo wraps
- ice boots (I have the kind that I can insert any frozen pack into - ziplocks of ice, frozen peas etc.)
- quilts
- standing wraps
- etc

At the barn in a drawer lives additional supplies.  The 2 containers above that go to the trailer hang out with these additional supplies when we aren't traveling.  These are things that I think are worth having around, but I don't bring with me on trips.

 

In a secondary container I have 

- Big dosing syringes

- little syringes, some with needles, some without.  All syringes with needles are new in their packaging

- More feminine pads

- Gauze pads and bandaids

- a plastic bag for surpass application (I find it easier to have a ziplock bag on hand than gloves)

- antibiotic ointment

 

Other items in the first aid drawer are:
- rubbing alcohol
- betadine, soap based
- furasone
-Wound coat spray (tends to dry out wounds, while the antibiotic ointment tends to keep them moist.  Depending on location and type of wound, one may be better than the other)
- weight tape
- box with pen, paper, safetypins, marker


There are 2 things would greatly enhance the usability of my kit while not making it significantly more cumbersome or high maintenance
1. Flashlight
2. Clot pack

The situations that I designed my kit to cover are (along with my what changes I need to make):
1. Stabalize a major bleed (would need a clot pack, and possibly a roll of gauze cotton to complete this goal).
2. Provide care for a tendon injury
3. Manage mild musculoskeletal pain
4. Manage a colic until I get to the vet (would need to add Banamine to the kit to complete this goal)
5. Treat minor skin wounds and infections (would like to add tree tea oil so that I'm able to treat thrush)

Overall I have a very basic, very limited kit.  However, most things that happen outside of these scenerios I would not likely be able to address outside of a fully stocked vet hospital anyways.....so the focus remains on being able to treat the minor and stabalize the major.  When I'm a vet and if I have supply to additional medications, I would love to keep xylazine, banamine, and bute on hand. However, for now, I think what I have is sufficient. 

Feel free to stop reading here.....but just in case you wanted yet ANOTHER example of a very different type of first aid kit with different considerations, here is yet another example of a first aid kit currently in use. 

"another" horse kit
I thought it might be useful to see some of the stuff and considerations and reasons behind a kit beyond my own.  I'm not necessarily presenting any of this as "ideal" (in fact, none of these kits presented in this blog are "ideal"), but just more information for you to consider as you put together your own kit.

I'm helping some people put together a horse first aid kit for a group that will be going on a cross country trip to an event back east. There are multiple horses being served by the kit. The information below is based on email correspondence as we discussed what was currently in the kit, what should be added, and the reasoning behind each item.

Kit #1

Limitations: Limited space.  Likely the kit will be used by someone with limited skills in the field where nothing is going to be truly clean.  Kit is carried on horseback and is likely to get hot in the sun (bag is a black leather), and squished. 

Goals of the kit/scenarios addressed:
a. treat minor cuts on the legs and body
b. an emergency bandage for a major injury that is able to stabilize it until you can get to a vet hospital or make other decisions.
c. Stop a major bleed.  Maybe.  Horses have a lot of blood. :)

I was given the current contents of the kit, and asked what my thoughts were:

- Container of corona tubed ointment: good.  Can deal with a bunch of different bumps and scrapes

- Scarlex spray coating for skin: good, although if you want to eliminate something take this out.  I like corona for keeping dry wounds moist and I'll use sprays (they are all about the same) for wounds on the legs that need to stay drier, however bentadyne will do exactly the same job and will be more versitile.

- 2 blue wraps: assuming vetwrap?  Good.  Realize that vet wrap tends to degrade in the heat so check it often. Also, it doesn't store well once it is out of it's nice plastic packaging.

- Scissors: assuming these are bandage sissors that have a blunt end?  If not (if they are pointy on both ends, discard them and replace them with bandage sisscors that can be used to cut bandages off without the risk of damaging tissue underneath.

- water and bentadyne mixed in a container: Would recommend carrying an bottle of undiluted bentadyne scrub (it's alcohol based, NOT the soap based stuff).  The water is taking up room and there's always water available to dilute.

- some weavy cotton for cuts (4x4): Good. This is what you will use with the betadine.  If there's a whole package in there, Put a handful into a ziplock to save room.  You won't need the whole package.

- one brown stretchy tape for leg or whatever: Assuming this is an ace bandage type bandage.  This will be a life saver if your vet wrap melts.

- rubber gloves: Good......but may or may not be a necessity if you are trying to save space.  Gloves tend to make people think that their hands are cleaner than they actually are.

- cotton wrap in package: Excellent.  Is this the rolled cotton that has a paper backing?  Or the thinner stuff that is on a roll? Both can make a good stabilization bandage.

- a few more cotton small pads: throw out and replace with a couple of feminine pads.  They stay cleaner, take up less room and are a lot more useful for dealing with wounds that need to stay clean, and the adhesive side will help keep it in place over a bandage material.

- nothing more will fit in the container

OK.......so taking the above into consideration, I had a couple of recommendations for what else might be squeezed into the container and provide substantial benefit for the effort and cost :)
1. A roll of gauze cotton (is used over the rolled cotton to compress it, and then vet wrap is placed over this layer to form a robert jones bandage or modified robert jones bandage or something like these).
2. A package of quickclot.  This doesn't necessary need to be kept on the pack but should at least be with the trailer, where major injuries tend to occur.  These packs are expensive - the human ones are good but kind of small, they make bigger horse sized ones.  They are the only way you are going to be able to stop an arterial bleed.  They have a shelf life of a couple of years, even in the heat.

Kit #2
A more general kit for the trailer

Specific concerns listed for the trip were:
- Tying up
- colic
- Sore muscles and joints (horses are older)
- Dehydration (horses come from a coastal climate and are performing in a hot, humid one.
- Foot soreness (horses are all barefoot)

What can be added to the first aid kit, to expand it to make it applicable to these scenarios (and is it even possible to expand your kit to address these scenerios)??????????

Specifically the common drugs and treatements that are first aid-related to these situations that were asked about are:

Bute, Banamine, electrolyte paste, asorbine rubs/linament, and boots. 

Good additions?  Maybe!!!!!!!! 

Bute: Good for lameness/musculoskeletal type pain.  Should it be kept in the field kit?  I personally wouldn't keep drugs in the field kit for 2 reasons.  #1 because the heat degrades the drugs.  #2 you can get a horse in SERIOUS trouble with administering bute to a dehydrated horse.  You can kill it.  So I would prefer to see these types of drugs kept in a place with limited access so that a person with both the knowledge and the accountability is the only one that gets to give stuff like that. Protect the well meaning person from their limited knowledge.

Banamine: Good for visceral pain (ie colics).  It's an NSAID and will cause the same issues as Bute if given to a dehydrated horse.  Also realize that adding this drug to your kit doesn't mean that you have necessarily expanded your kit to include a colic scenario.  You have expanded your kit to include pain management for a colic until you have gotten it to a vet

Elyte paste -Leaving the hydration discussion and how/what/when to administer elytes to support your hydration efforts aside....I'm not convinced the addition of a tube of electrolytes expands your kit to include the additional scenerios.

Some Absorbine rub for cooling and stiffness?

- Now I'm REALLY getting into personal opinion :).....IMO most of these products are more for the human than the horse - it's probably the massage that does more than anything else for the horse.  If you have limited space, it isn't a necessity.  But if you have the space, sometimes it's easier to do a massage when using these products.

An boot or two for hoof and sole injuries?

-Generally boots have different sizes, and if you are dealing with multiple horses and one kit, the boot you have probably won't be the right size and probably won't stay on.  The better bet for a hoof injury that needs attention is cotton padding and duct tape (ie a temporary boot that can be made from materials in your existing kit). 

Horse Expo

I went to the horse expo in Sacramento Saturday. I volunteered in the Ride and Tie booth, and then did some walking around. 

The first year I went (which was the first year of the event) I was a young 4-Her selling raffle tickets. Since then I've gone as a horse lover that rode other people's horses but dreamed of her own. I've gone as a new endurance rider and an experienced endurance rider. And now I've been as a vet student.

Where as before I would spend hours and hours looking through the vendors and have a schedule of seminars I wanted to attend, as well as a long list of things I was looking to buy, this year I realized that something has changed for me.

For the vendors I had 2 items I needed and managed to find one of them (a screen that would fit into my horse trailer drop down window). In contrast to previous years, I practically ran through 4 buildings of vendors and didn't stop to chat or look very often. 

I found myself unwilling to take the time look at vendors that didn't relate to a specific goal I had. I skipped the supplement booths - most of the supplements that have been proven to work are testable in AERC and I prefer to feed just want I need and not a "comprehensive". Feed vendors? I've explored most of my feed options and what's on the market. And tack? I've researched most of the tack and saddle options and know what works for me and Farley. The one tack item I was interested in (the perfect crupper) did not exist in any of the booths - in fact there was only one crupper to be found in the entire expo - a zilco one sold by the Australian Connection (which I already own and am looking to replace). 

Which brings me to my first observation - there is many many less tack vendors at the expo now than a couple of years ago. There are a lot more "specialized" product vendors and clinician product lines. It's interesting to note the trends of the new products - The Horse Expo being a general show probably represents some of the emerging trends that are being widely recognized in the horse industry - and it looks like the idea that horses should be allowed to graze and eat over most of the day is one of those concepts. There were a TON of options for slow hay feeders, including one that mimicked what I tried to create with a hockey net a couple years ago that didn't work because it was very "beta". It looks like if I ever bring my horse home there are a lot of options for free/slow feeding while still controlling the total amount of hay fed. 

The expo used to be the place I would buy my tack and management supplies that I couldn't find local and didn't want to order, but now I think it's more valuable to visit the vendors to explore new product "concepts" and compare between the ideas/manufactures of products that will probably never be carried by a feed or tack store.

In summary, based in my disinterest in most of the vendors, It appears that I've moved out of the "need more stuff stage". Either that or I've become jaded and cynical about everything as well as being too broke to even form wish lists?

What about the seminars? Looking through the schedule I realized that the seminars fell into 3 categories: 

1. A demonstration about a sport or topic that I was unfamiliar with but have always been interested in - like combined driving. These seminars would give me a chance to see a new sport in action at a basic level. However, demonstrations that covered sports or topics that were familiar already probably wouldn't be a good use of my time since I would be unlikely to see or hear anything substantially new. 

I think the strength of the big Horse Expo is to explore new disciplines and topics, not necessarily to learn the details of a familiar sport. 

2. A riding demonstration/seminar that (forgive me) caters to the older, middle-aged women dealing with fear issues. Although we all have to face fear and uncertainty in the saddle at some point on a continuing basis, nowadays as long as I have a sensible horse like Farley (which is the only kind of horse I plan on riding....) or my ride and tie mount, Stashi, I'm good to go in this area. I have a good handle on what my fear triggers are, why they are there, and strategies to deal with them. If I need more training in this area, a combination of a psychologist's office and individual riding instruction will be better money and time spent at this stage of my riding ability and career. 

3. Topic seminars on important subjects such as metabolic syndrome or nutrition that probably present concepts that are beyond the basics......but I've seen and listened to the same speakers multiple times at other events. I walked by Claire Thune, a nutritionist, giving a seminar and heard the familiar concepts of lecture I had attended at a previous event that contained VERY VALUABLE information - but information that I've already thoroughly explored. Seeing these seminars and speakers on the schedule was very reassuring - I'm definitely listening to the right people and learning the right concepts :).

So, looking at the seminars and my general sense that none were really worth my time, I'm not sure whether I've become a more knowledgeable equestrian now, or I'm arrogant enough that I feel like I know everything I need to know, at least at the level that was presented at this relatively non-specialized expo. 

Or it could be a reflection of the value I place on my time nowadays - I'm just not willing to spend hours on the chance I might pick up a tidbit here and there. My time is so precious and as time passes it seems more so.

What I should have done was treat the expo like any other convention and focus on one or two topics.  Then attend everything on those topics and try to become an expert in that subject...and then pick the 2 or 3 things to implement in the next 14 days. At a big event like this, unless you do this strategy, its easy to not feel like you got anything out of an expo you paid money to attend. I think I'm done being able to go a convention by myself and just wander around and feel satisfied at this stage of my life. Either go with friends and be social, or go with a purpose.

My last observation was the amount of injured people I saw at the convention. There's a joke among vets that you can always tell the horse vets at a convention because they are the ones that are bent over and hobbling around. The injury rate among horse vets is really high. 

It's always been a bit confusing to me since I've never had a serious horse injury. I'm pretty good at reading body language and am very safety conscious (see, being a scaredy cat and a very cautious beginner comes in handy!). It's not that I've just worked my with my own, trained horses. I've volunteered for numerous non profits that did not have the most well mannered horses, and I've done lots of different things on horse back -  and while others around me were injured my biggest "badge" is a broken toe. 

Luck plays into it, but I think there's a bit of skill, and intuition that plays into it as well. I've talked to horse vets. One vet told me that it's inevitable that you get hurt and listed the many injuries, many serious and debilitating, that they have gotten over the years. However I talked to my vet in Turlock, who has really good horse sense, works with a lot of horses, and he has yet to have a serious injury and there's only been one incidence of a serious injury to another vet in his practice. So I'm not sure exactly what factors play into remaining injury free or not. 

Maybe it's like computers. There are certain people that stuff just "happens" to their computers. (I'm looking at you redgirl:) It's not that they are careless, but inevitably, their computer has to be replaced because something unfortunate happened to it, usually well before the computer was due to be replaced. And then there are people (like me...) who aren't really that careful, who let their bird climb all over the computer, drink open cups of coffee and take lunch while entering data and yet nothing ever happens. 

So, I don't know exactly what to think, except at the expo I was struck by the number walking wounded in the horse world. And was sincerely grateful I wasn't one of them, and I would love to keep it that way!

Posted with Blogsy

10 Reasons Farley didn't get to canter...

Actually, contrary to the title, there is NOT going to be a bullet list of reasons Farley wasn't going to be able to canter. Mostly because:

a. I relented at the end of the ride and she got to canter

b. I WILL break my habit of turning everything into a neat bulleted list of 10 categories.

So. Went for a ride the other day. Tess, Farley and me riding along on an afternoon that was heat training just standing in it.

When did Farley stop traveling forward? In a straight line?

And by forward I don't mean that she is not forward in speed, attitude but rather the "forward" as the nebulous "in front of the leg" and thus can remain connected from back to front.

A horse that is not connected can do all sorts of naughty, unexpected things. So yes, it's a bit disconcerting that Farley has decided to be both energetic and fast, yet refuse to be in front of my leg and "forward".

The energy bleeds out in all directions. There were a couple of unexpected "downward transitions". There were sideways spooks that while didn't unseat me let me know exactly how little her walnut sized brain was focused on the task at hand.

And the fact that she moves differently on different diagnols and this is even more apparent when she's not travelling correctly ANNOYS THE HECK OUT OF ME.

As an OCD person I like things to be even and equal. You know when you smash your finger against something and you have the impulse to smash your other finger so they can be equal? Yeah.....exactly like that. So....let's review things Farley was doing that drive me nuts

1. not traveling straight

2. Inverting when asking for a half halt

3. Ignoring my leg

4. Behind my leg

5. Not traveling evenly

NO WAY was she going to get to canter with this behavior.

Yes, I know that she wasn't bucking, rearing, stopping, backing, or doing all sorts of "dangerous" behaviors. So what's the big deal? So....in my world letting a broke horse engage in the above behaviors is just as bad as a rearing or a bucking problem. It's just more insidious. The above problems not addressed are why you progress to bucking, rearing, stopping, and falls. The above problems not addressed can lead to unevenness, lameness, being off, funky muscle development, and poor position in the saddle. The above problems not addressed leads to a horse that isn't fun to ride, and a sense that you aren't in control, even though you can't "put your finger on it" - because technically they are going to speed and gait you are asking.

Oh, and by the way...

...while "chase the white dog" is a great game to play normally......"catch and chomp the white dog" is NOT, and that's the feeling that was emanating from Farley that the game was going to rapidly turn into.

I thought all sorts of nasty thoughts at Farley

1. This is why I can't do a ride and tie practice with you right now - I can't be certain you will behave yourself.

2. This is why you are going to end up with an ugly muscle underneck

3. Half halts and leg doesn't mean throw a hissy fit.

4. Horses that refuse to go forward at the beginning of the ride, and have to be thumped do NOT get to canter home.

5. I swear I'm going to start carrying a crop on our trail rides.

6. If you eat my dog I will sell you to Canada

EEk! Couldn't help myself and a bulleted list snuck its way in. Actually more than one.......

I should probably check myself into "bulleted list overuser anonymous".

Any hoo...the three of us managed to finish the ride intact, even though Tess needed serious cooling at the end.

Last afternoon ride for Tess unless I clip her, and considering that she has degenerated into barking and spinning circles as I mount up at the start of the ride in excitement, she is NOT going to be a happy dog about this policy change for the rest of the summer. She may LOVE food and our runs, but she LIVES for our horse rides.

Why not clip her? I'm worried about the sun. She has very pink skin, very white hair and spends a substantial amount in the sun. It's fairly common to see skin cancer on dog's stomachs who lay on their backs and sunbathe, especially if they have a lighter coat color and pink skin. The skin is more sparse on the stomach which is why it's common to see the cancer there. Shaving Tess would expose her body to a similar risk. I thought about giving her a modified "trace" clip and shave everything that wasn't on the top of her body......but the issue is that she tears through, under, and over the brush on the trail and the combination of her thick, loose-ish skin that is a breed characteristic, and the hair is protective. This is less concerning than the sun issue but still needs thinking about. Tess already has a short-ish coat that isn't excessive - and like clipping horses I tend to be conservative about clipping a "working" dog that has a "normal" coat. In most cases I feel that hair is protective and there has to be a demonstrated need to cut it off my dogs or horses. If it was the golden retriever? I would clip. They've been bred for excessively long coats and his job is to longe around the house and yard, and the coat would grow back in before hunting season this fall/winter. The German Shepherd whose job it is to stay and home and be a companion? She has conservative coat, but if she got hot I would shave it since she doesn't really have a job that requires the hair for protection. The Brittany? Not sure clipping is the greatest idea. The Endurance Arab? The nominal cooling effect I might get from clipping IMO isnt worth the loss of protection or functional effects of the various types and areas of hair that are cut off.

Dogs are so inefficient at cooling in hot weather I'm not sure I could take enough hair off of her to let her go on our afternoon rides anyways, unless we were riding by the river.

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

I rode today and the world improved

 It's been over a week and a half since I've ridden!!!! 

*&&*^%%^&^&%*(()). 

It was not for the lack of trying. 

Thursday I put in a nice ride in the wintec, complete with putting on the crupper for the first time in the arena with lunging.

Friday, as planned, I left for Redding to do some backpacking and did not see the horse......

Ditto for Saturday, Sunday, Monday. 

Tuesday I intended to see Farley.  What I did instead was to run errands like searching thrift stores for a food saver (one of those heat sealer gadgets) to put my bear bait (the renamed "spackle") in, since I think making up custom packets is the ticket....and doing an oil change on my car WAY more miles over than I will admit to here (but far enough over that when I called my boyfriend to announce that I had changed my car's oil and instead of the metaphorical "good girl" pat on the head, I instead recieved a lecture on timely oil changes.  But really, Tuesday was a day of rest after a backpacking trip and catching up on life after exiting school on Friday.  Certainly there is time to see Farley in the remainder of the week? 

Wednesday.  Cat died, had to take my practical comprehensive.  "nuff said.

Thursday. Still wallowing in "my cat died", boot fittings/deliveries, preparing for camping trip the next weekend.  Intended to see Farley, but just didn't happen.  Too much icecream, grief, anger, and supernatural episodes.  But there is still hope!!!!!!  Comp on Friday shouldn't last past noon!  I can see Farley before I go! Consolation prize: mailed my Wild West entry for 2 days of 50's.

Friday.  The last straw on a very long, very bad week.  Did the written comprehensive.  Probably a 50/50 chance I passed (or failed).  Driving home I needed gas, so I stopped at a gas station, and.......my car wouldn't start.  AND the car alarm randomly started going off and wouldn't stop by doing all the normal things you are supposed to do.  AND it was parked in the sun.  AND I couldn't get it out of park into neutral so I could push it.  AND my phone was almost dead. 

Verdict after hours spent waiting for tow truck driver + tow truck driver trying to charge my battery + stopping my alarm (at the end involved ripping random wires out of places) + starting my car = my battery is totally done for and I need a new one......BUT the nice driver did NOT want to sell me one and install because we FINALLY got my alarm silenced and the car started and we were afriad it was going to be another 40 minutes to do the same after repalcing the battery in some random parking lot.  My alarm is doing weird things because it's being reset by the battery.  So, I was to drive home, do not pass go, do not collect $200, do not run the air conditioning/radio/lights/windows/phone charger, and most importantly, DO NOT STOP AND SEE MY HORSE.  Tess and I had a very hot 100 degree drive home, in which, if I'm being honest, was a bit heart wrenching to see the stable passing by.

Not that there was time anyways.....time to go on a camping trip. 

Saturday/Sunday: Camping!!!!!!  Again.  But this time less walking and more eating and sitting.  Which is the very definition of the difference between camping and backpacking.

Monday: New job. Weird hours. Good intentions.  Compromise was to stop, drop off the board check, and kiss the pony nose with promises of a brand new tomorrow.

Tuesday (today): I rode!!!!  And it was glorious!!!!  And my horse, if not necessarily good was at least tolerant :). 

I almost didn't ride with a crupper.  Arguments against: 10 days since I rode, this will be the first ride with the crupper, and I'm short of time - no time for bad things to happen this morning.  Argument for: I only have so many rides between now and Wild West. 

So of course I rode with it. 

And again, no drama (besides her insistence that she will. not. unclamp. her. tail.)

During the ride I reached behind me periodically to tug on it - no reaction. 

There are 2 down hills - short but steep - on this route and each time I gave it a little tug before the down hill to remind her it was there, but she didn't even seem to notice. 

I declare her crupper trained. 

Here are some atrocious pics of my current crupper set up. 

 Remind me never to photograph Farley from *this* angle again.  "ugh". 

I don't have a loop at the back of the saddle, AND I don't have the little straps that run to my stirrup leathers, so this is my solution until I can get something a bit more "official". 

I put a ziptie on each D ring on the back/side of the saddle, leaving enough space to form a ring. 

Then I took this piece from my dressage bridle - which I have never used - the only thing that Farley would hate my guts more than the slightly tight cavasson on that bridle, is if I put this little band thingy on that fits below the bit is designed to hold her mouth shut.  The name escapes me.  Anyways.  Never used and when I was digging through my ends and pieces, I decided this would work. I strapped it between the 2 zipties, and then attached the crupper to the leather piece.  Voila!!!!!

Runamoc update

NOT having a good day.  My cat Mickie died in her sleep sometime last night and while she was old, she wasn't THAT old and it was very unexpected.  So now I'm sitting here not preparing for the first part of my capstone exam that is taking place in less than 2 hours, and instead sorting through my pictures from backpacking last weekend and eating a morning bun from starbucks.

So, I've decided to post something easy that doesn't require a lot of thought.......an update on my runamocs and how much I love them.

I have a newer pair of Runamocs (generation 3) that are pink and have very thin soles, but for hiking and trail stuff, I still prefer my original pair of black runamocs.  They don't see a lot of use beyond hiking and backpacking these days, but I gave them another thorough work out last weekend.  Here's some shots of them doing a fabulous job on a rather technical trail:

I've tried out a couple of different barefoot/minimalist shoe options and runamocs remain my favorite, both on the trail and off. 

Here's a short video of me going down the trail in them.


The rest of the trip is more relevant to Tess's blog than this one, so I'll be posting more of the story and pics over there.  

What's in a first aid kit - Human

Today we are going to evaluate a mix of human and horse first aid kits.  The kits are ACTUAL kits in use, NOT theoretical "best case scenario" kits.   I did not modify or evaluate the contents prior to blog in order to make them look better or worse....... :)

The intro post to this subject is here. 

This post kept getting longer and longer....and longer so it's been split into human and equine.  This post covers the human side. 

Backpacking kit
Limitations: kit needs to be small and portable and light.

Scenarios:
-Reduce pain
-Stabilize major injury so I don't die
-Make it possible for me to continue walking/hiking in less than optimal conditions
-Address more minor injuries so they don't become major ones along the course of a trip
-Improve my chances of survival away from civilization, at a weight and size that means I will actually put the thing in my pack.

Because it is a backpacking kit, I do have some items that are more "survival" included that have functions beyond medical.  I think that is appropriate considering the goals of the kit.

Total weight: 7 ounces

In a ziplock
- mirror: for signalling, catching attention, and for looking for ticks and cactus spines in hidden places....
- small feminine pad/liner: for bandaging
- inhaler: because I've been in situations where I got into respiratory distress due to an exercise induced asthma, so this is worth it's weight for me. True, it's never happened during a backpacking trip (only after a 100 mile endurance ride) but it was scary and not fun, and I didn't have an inhaler on hand.
- bandaids: mostly because I get bloody torn cuticles that could potentially get infected.
- Safety pins: can be sanitized and used as needles.
- wet fire: my emergency tinder
- crazy glue: to fix equipment and cracked skin/fingertips. Or stick a bandage on if I really needed to.
- matches: backup, in its own ziplock inside this ziplock.
- Sewing kit: 1 needle, one darning needle in a piece of closed cell foam with quilting thread, and waxed floss wound around.  I also have a suture needle with swagged on suture that I have removed from the packaging since it won't be used in sterile situations.  This is stuck in the foam with the other needles.  The sewing kit is in general meant for repairing equipment and for improvising with equipment in an emergency, not for stitching anything biological.  Although one of my classmates pointing out I could ligate a vessel if needed, which is true.

All of this is placed in a small ditty sack that also contains
- Ace bandage: in it's own ziplock to keep in clean, which will help it retain it's stretchiness. This item has been used more than once, although not by me :).  It can be a day-saver for a hiker with knee pain that has to go down hill. 
- Clot pack: small.  It was suggested to me by someone that has actually used these to make sure I got the type that is an actual pack, not powder. 
- Medicine: Ibuprofen, anti-diarrhea, aspirin, benedryl, Vicodin in a small ziplock.   Total is about 1 oz.  (included in the 7oz figure above). 

 Optional: In the winter time I'll carry a myler blanket (adds 1.5 ounces).  If I'm hiking by myself, backup water treatment (1 oz) is included. 

Other items that have been in the kit in the past that I no longer reguarly carry are
- moleskin
- tweezers
- epipen

Other thoughts: I've put a lot of thought into this kit and decided what is likely to be used, what can be used in the back country, what the capabilities are likely going to be of me and those around me in a situations, and worst case scenarios.  I've looked at other people's kits and their rational for each item and then made some personal decisions.  There's always room for improvement, but I comfortable with the kit right now. 


Car kit
Limitations: kept under the seat of the car.  Gets hot in the summer, so anything in it has to be fairly heat stable.

Goals: 
-Acute injuries (bleeding, swelling) that may not need further medical attention
-Minor hurts (headaches, cuts, insect bites etc.)
-Make everyday life a bit less painful


I got this kit as a gift from my mother and I think this is one of the better kits out there.  I can picture me using most of the items, and I've been able to replace items as they have been used.  

 Nice compact kit that lives under my seat

An assortment of bandaids and gauze bandaging and teflon etc.  I think feminine pads+ace bandage make better emergency bandages than dealing with a teflon pad that is always too small and tape that won't stick, HOWEVER from this assortment I've been able to deal with bleeding cuticles, cracked finger tips, minor cuts, seeping poison oak patches etc. 

Packs of Advil and Tylenol.  As I've used the meds I've replaced them with the similar packets because they are clearly labeled with doses and directions. Repackaging pills from larger bottles, would be cheaper, but I would lose the ability to toss this kit at someone that needed something from it and have everything be self explanatory and for them to be confident in what the pills were, expiration dates, storage conditions in the packaging etc.  This isn't my primary "go to" location for meds when I'm away from home.  I carry a separate, small "kit" with me in my backpack that contains NSAIDs etc for my personal use in a small altoids tin

I've added moleskin to the kit - holds up better than duct tape in the heat and can help protect a wound like a blister from further damage.

Scissors and forceps.  Both are pretty useless.  Scissors aren't sharp enough, forceps aren't pointy enough. The Scissors will work OK if needed.  Although a good knife and a needle would do everything that even better. :)

Roll of cotton gauze good for tying stuff on to various body parts

Gloves.  NOT sterile.  Good for human medicine where there might be blood.  But don't put them on and think that you can now touch stuff that you couldn't with your barehands because you are somehow "cleaner".  Because you aren't.

LOTS of little cleaning wipes.  Remember that the alcohol ones are useful for sanitizing hands etc.  The soap ones are good for cleaning wounds.  Don't use peroxide and alcohol to clean wounds!!!!!  Soap and water.  Even just copious amounts of water if you don't have soap is better than alcohol!

A roll of tape - that will never stick to what it needs to stick to.  I promise

Neosporin - the packets are great!  Except when you only use half and want to save the rest for later.  Than it leaks all over your kit.  Better to just buy a small tube and leave in here IMO

Blistex packet - I don't use lip balm often but if someone was desprete maybe this would be a nice thing to have - but if I use it out of the kit I probably won't replace it.

Packet of sunscreen - Same situation as the lip stuff.

Burn gel: Same as the sunscreen and blistex packet.  Nice for it to be there, but not integral to the kit and won't replace if it gets used.

Cold compress: YES!!!!!  Now here is something truly useful that I would totally use (and replace) as necessary.

Other Thoughts:
After reviewing this kits, one thing that this kit does NOT address that would probably be useful is the ability to stabilize a more major wound well enough that further medical attention can be sought.  This kit does not contain compression bandages, a clot pack, or any "wrapping" type bandages needed for more major injuries.  This is truly a minor injury kit that meets my stated goals - which are reasonable for the types of things I will encounter in my day to day life associated with my vehicle. Adding stuff to this kit would add bulk and size and increase the chances that I wouldn't take it with me - I swap this kit between vehicles that I drive so that I'm maintaining a minimum of kits.  Having to maintain a kit for each vehicle instead of just one is something that would fall under the "good intentions" category, but wouldn't actually happen.....

In general, it's a good, useful kit that doesn't go overboard and stuff that I will never need (and thus cluttering up the kit and keeping me from being able to find stuff), that has a few "fluff" items.  It would be frusterating to deal with a major injury with this kit, BUT it does it's job well if you stick with the intended goals of the kit - make everyday life a bit easier and less painful when you are less prepared than you ought to be. 

Random human internet kit

For the purposes of this discussion, I decided to use an REI kit.  I tried to find a mid-level kit that wasn't too over the top, but also put some serious thought into treating something beyond minor cuts and bruises.

I settled on this one, which is designed for 4 people over a 5 day trip

Here are the contents with my comments

• All contents are packed together in a zippered nylon case; clear vinyl compartments let you easily identify the items you need (Yeah!!!!!  I really like that about my car kit, and is why I use a clear ziplock for my backpacking kit.  Clear and organized is so important when you want something quickly)
• Comes with "The Wilderness First Aid Manual" by Dr. William Forgey for quick reference while on the trail; also includes an accident/evacuation record (Eh.  Your most important piece of equipment is your brain and you should thoroughly study this before the accident.  I'm ambivalent about this - but it's also because of my background and experience.  I'm likely to read it and then leave it home, but maybe it would be useful depending on your group.  I left the little instructions in my car kit because I'm not worried about weight, and that way someone can educate themself if they are trying to treat something on themselves, or heaven forbid, someone else)
• Treat wounds with five 3 x 0.75 in. adhesive bandages, five 3 x 1 in. adhesive bandages, 4 knuckle adhesive bandages, 4 fingertip bandages and 4 butterfly closures (I'm more of a fan of more generalized bandages that can be adapted to more situations, than carrying so many specialized bandages that will probably degrade before they are used.  *shoulder shrug*.  IMO a feminine pad/liner, regular bandaids, and a teflon square pad or two are more than adequate)
• Also includes four 2 x 2 in. gauze pads, three 3 x 3 in. gauze pads, a 3 x 2 in. non-adherent pad, a 4 x 3 in. non-adherent pad and four 4 x 4 in. sterile top sponges (So.........sterility is relative and has an expiration date so I'm not THAT impressed with the 4 sterile items. I've never found gauze pads that useful and they just stick to stuff, I like teflon and feminine pads - although you can use gauze to pack a wound.  I think sitting down and deciding how you would bandage various wounds and in what circumstances you would use different bandage materials could be useful when deciding on different components and what you want available to you.  Why not just include everything under the sun?  Because when you want/need a teflon bandage and you have to sort through stacks of gauze pads you aren't going to be happy. )
• Two 4 x 3 in. pieces of moleskin, a 9 x 5 in. abdominal/pressure pad, a 4.1 yd. x 2 in. stretch gauze roll, a 10 yd. x 1 in. roll of tape and a 2 in. elastic bandage (Moleskin is appropriate, as is the pressure pad.  The stretch gauze is very useful, as is the elastic bandage, although an argument might be made that these 2 items could be redundant - like the gauze versus bandages, do your research on why you would choose one over the other and decide whether you want both. How about the tape?  I've never ever ever gotten medical tape to stick to ANYTHING I wanted it to stick unless I was at home dealing with clean skin and I planned on sitting on the couch all day and not moving.  So......I tend to choose other tape options :)
• Prep and care for wounds with 3 antibacterial wipes, 4 triple-antibiotic ointment packets, 3 sting relief wipes, 3 povidone-iodine wipes and 1 antimicrobial hand wipe (I would TOTALLY increase the hand wipes.  Just one????????? Compared to the gazzillion wound wipes????????
• Medications include 4 Nutralox® mint antacid tablets, 4 Proprinal® ibuprofen 200mg tablets and 4 Cetafen® acetaminophen 325mg tablets (I'm totally biased here since I have never had to take an antiacid, so it's never included in my first aid kits.  But maybe you have a different opinion.  Ibuprofen - Good.  Acetaminophen - Good, although my choice is aspirin, and I don't like Acetaminophen, but I think your choice of these sorts of drugs is personal preference and any specific medical conditions you might have.  I know there is mixed recommendations about the anti-diarrheal pills, but after considering them, and the consequences of being in the backcountry with uncontrollable diarrhea, I've decided to include them in my kit so I at least have the option :)
• Also includes 2 Histaprin® diphenhydramine 25mg tablet and 1 pill vial and label (This is benedryl - Good.  Although I would bring lots more......especially for the amount of people/days this kit is for.  Although I come from a family where lots of us have pollen/grass allergies and we are taking for more than just contact rashes etc.  At somepoint I will camp in a meadow on a trip and not be able to BREATHE because I'm so stuffy.)
• Equipment includes 3 safety pins, a pair of latex-free medical gloves, bandage scissors, splinter forceps and a 10 x 8 in. resealable waste bag (safety pins - good.  Forceps - assuming they will do as described and actually grab a splinter.....good.  Waste bag - really good idea!!!  Backpacking I usually have enough bags I don't need to add a seperate one to the kit, but that would probably be an excellent item to add to my other kits (car, horse etc.).  That way no potentially biohazard waste is left laying around, or contaminating some trashcan.  Bandange scissors?  Wouldn't put in a backpacking kit.  Maybe in a horse kit.  And.....gloves.  See previous comments about gloves.......Good especially if another person is bleeding.  But doesn't necessarily mean you are sterile or even clean.  Please don't go probing any wound I might have with those gloves you just pulled out of the first aid kit......

And now for your thoughts!!!!!!

Horse kit is coming - but I actually need to go to the stable and see what is in my kit.  I can't cheat by just trying to remember - the point of the post is to do actuals, not what I think is there or the "ideal". 

I hope none of my meds are expired.  That would be embarrassing.....

First Aid Kits

But first a few updates.....

The Wintec
I put a Fleece on the Wintec and it feels good!  So 17.5 with full fleece or a 17 without fleece.  That will give me a bit of flexibility when looking for a used one.  It's a secure saddle even though the seat isn't as deep as the solstice - it was a windy day and we were doing some technical footing and I never even came close to coming off the center of gravity, while still having the freedom to move around in the saddle as needed.

My leg is pretty stable in the saddle except.....that it moves more on one diagonal than the other.  This is indescribably annoying.  Rising and falling with the left shoulder?  Perfectly stable leg.  Rising and falling with the right shoulder?  Leg (especially my right) rubs back and forth.  SO ANNOYING.  Farley definitely has a preference for leads etc.  It took a year of dressage lessons before she would consistently pick up both canter leads equally and she's noticeably stiff to one side and overbent on the other.  Not totally her fault of course - her rider isn't the perfect picture of balance and symmetry either......So, I got 2 things out of yesterday's ride:

1: We have GOT to keep working on the basics and doing the dressage because over time, one sideness is NOT the recipe for soundness and health.  Dressage and making sure I don't favor one lead/diagonal over the other is important!

2: I rode in shorts - which I thought would be OK because I had a full fleece.  It was NOT.  The fleece is worn near the bottom of the leathers and about 30 minutes in I knew I was going to have to cut the ride shorter than I wanted because the rubbing and rising pain was starting to influence my riding.  I found myself only wanting to ride the left diagonal, since my leg didn't rub and was stable.  A PERFECT example of why the tack has to fit you as well as the horse and be comfortable. 

Of Cruppers
After the ride, I did some crupper training in the arena.

I had thought that Farley's first crupper experience would provide enough fodder for an entire post......but it ended up being a complete nonstory, which is why we are going to talk about first aid kits today!  The hardest part was convincing her to lift her tail enough I could get it on.  I tried all my tricks, including the one I learned in vet school so I could temp an uncooperative horse - touching the anus.  Nope.  It finally occurred to me to have her walk forward a couple of steps - when walking forward she naturally unclamps her tail and I was able to slip in on.

No bucking, no hysterics, NOTHING.

I love this mare.  We will ignore the fact that earlier in the day, in order to try and ease my burning calves I brought my feet forward over her shoulders at a walk for the last part of the ride and she turned around and bit my foot.

In general she's so sensible and easy.

At this point I'm not sure I could get the crupper on at the beginning of a ride, but I'll ride with one every ride from now until my next ride in mid June and see how it goes!  She has a really sensitive girth area and I'm hoping that using a crupper will decrease any over sensitivity that she's getting after a lot of hills. 

And now......Today we are going to discuss first aid kits - for the human and the horse. 
Why?  Because unless you have spent some time really evaluating your first aid kit and asking some key questions, chances are you won’t have what you really need in an emergency. 

Key question: What situations do I want to be able to address with my kit? 
IMO this is THE most important question, yet the least asked. 

Here’s the scenarios that I think about when I set up my emergency kit

For the horse
Stabilize a bleeding wound
Relieve pain associated with musculoskeletal injuries, colic
Address a tendon injury in the first 24 hours (wrapping etc.)
Clean a wound
Bandage a wound
***All of these, except for the more minor cuts and injuries are only until I can get my horse to the vet.

For the human
Relieve pain
Bandage wounds - minor
Stabilize more major wounds until can get medical attention
Treat diarrhea if I'm in the woods or in the middle of a ride
Remove splinters, ticks, and cactus spines

Considering scenarios is important because they will guide your choices of what to include and what not to include in your first aid kit - having a kit that you are comfortable with and knowing what you would use each piece of equipment for will make you more confident in using it, and will make the kit more useful. 



Other important questions/considerations
How often will I inspect my kit for cleanliness, expired stuff, and completeness? 

I know myself well. I tend to evaluate my kit only before long trips, usually the day that I leave. I also don’t have a ton of space, sometimes it gets left in the trailer after trips (where it can be really hot), and the environment is always dusty.  What does this mean?  I set up the kit to try and make it easy to maintain.  It fits in a container that I can carry with one hand to make it easy to take it out the trailer after events so it doesn’t get as hot.  It has a close fitting lid to not let dust in and I keep stuff that shouldn’t get dirty in ziplocks.  The kit is small enough that I can find what I need.  It has a few basic medications that I need to keep an eye on (bute, surpass) but in general the items in the kit are stable and don’t expire (bandages etc.) or have a long shelf life. I keep more feeding syringes than I need in it because I’m constantly borrowing them out of the kit for electrolytes :).

What are my skills and abilities related to first aid and being able to address an emergency?  And if I don’t specifically have the skill, is it likely that I will be with someone who can and is willing to do it for me? 

Here is an example.  If you have never wrapped a horse’s leg before, and don’t have some basic principles, carrying materials to do an emergency bandange/wrap isn’t very useful.  However, especially if you are in ride camp, it is likely that SOMEONE near you CAN wrap a horse’s leg and is willing to do it for you, if you have the stuff.  Thus, I would argue that including the right materials to wrap is a wise choice. 

How about another example?  Fluids.  Bags of fluids.  You could argue that this is an excellent idea.  In fact, I heard riders talking about whether keeping some bags in their trailers was a good idea at the convention last year.  Horses are generally tolerant of fluid overload so there’s a large safety margin in giving fluids, and endurance horses are usually dehydrated at the end of the ride, even if they look good.  Lots of problems begin and end with Dehydration, so having several liters of fluids (assuming room, weight, and replacing them when they expire aren’t issues) could be an excellent addition to your first aid kit.  IF YOU KNOW HOW TO USE THEM.  If not, they will sit there and expire and cost you money and are useless when you really need them.  I know how to put in a catheter and yes, I could administer fluids.  If you come up to me at ride camp and ask me to do so for your horse, I will not. Sorry - comes too close to “treatment” that should be done by a vet or it’s owner (if you are the owner of the horse you have some protection against practicing medicine without a license). There is a small argument that if your horse gets in trouble at a ride and you have fluids, you can get the treatment vet to give them, since it’s possible that the vet doesn’t have lots of fluids on hand to give.....So, assuming for a moment that I did not know how to place a catheter and could not administer fluids, I would argue that the money and space could be better used for something else.  

In the next post we will consider the specifics of what will go into the kits - I'll share what is in my kits, a friend's kit, my opinions on the contents of some commercial kits. 

Quick catch up

Just so you don't think I've dropped off the face of the earth....

This is my last week of school, which will then be followed by a weekend of backpacking (trinity alps!) which will then be followed by a week of a capstone test (a 2 year comprehensive). 

So........if my posting is sporadic, or my posts full of errors.....of Freudian slips etc - you aren't allowed to be too harsh :).

So...just in case I don't get to this in a timely manner, here's where I am right now:

1. Irish horse lent me a wintec to try out.  Rode in it yesterday and I do believe a 17.5" is too big - which is weird because the wintec 17.5 dressage is perfect.  And the 17" Solstice was a wee small.  So at this point I've decided saddle sizes are like pants and the numbers they come with don't mean crap.  The plan is to put a full fleece on it - which may make it fit just right, in which case I will have to make a decision of which size I want to buy - sized with fleece or sized without.  Even with the saddle being a bit big, I could still get my leg underneath me and keep it there.  I feel balanced in it.  Farley didn't sweat enough to put a nice dirt pattern on my white pad, but from what I can see so far it looks good!!!!  Certainly good enough to go to the next step and try it with a fleece etc.

2. Crupper training.  Haven't started yet.  Should be fun.  Minx wore a crupper and all my driving horses do, so it's not like it's a foreign concept to me.....but Farley is definitely a crupper virgin.  :). 

3. There are a couple of articles that I've had sitting in my inbox that I wanted to share with you.....but I have to face the fact that they are starting to pile up and so I need to do the easy thing and just give you the links and let you read them without a bunch of commentary :)

a. A good article on recovery and glycogen replinishment.  Some of the most interesting points in the article to me (all of them are almost direct quotes, with some editing):
General recovery notes
- Even in cool conditions, the horse's respiratory rate will be elevated for 30 minutes to an hour after hard exercise--perhaps 60-80 breaths per minute for the first 10 minutes of recovery. Hot horses will have much higher breathing rates--as high as 120 or more breaths per minute, which reflects use of the respiratory system for heat loss. However, you should be concerned when the respiratory rate remains this high after five to 10 minutes of rest--this is an indication that your horse is overheated and in need of active cooling.
- You should measure the horse's rectal temperature after hard workouts. A rectal temperature in excess of 105-106°F (40.6-41.1°C) indicates the need for aggressive cooling. In most situations, respiration and rectal temperature should be at resting levels one hour after exercise.
- Traditionally, horse owners have not allowed "hot" horses to drink because of a perceived risk for development of colic and cold-water founder (laminitis). However, with the possible exception of very hard galloping exercise (e.g., Thoroughbred racing), it is safe for horses to drink right after exercise. In fact, clinical experience has shown that thirst drive decreases with time after exercise. 
- Electrolyte replacement will also help with the rehydration process. You have several options. On an ongoing basis, provide a salt block and some loose salt (in a bucket) in the horse's stall. However, particularly during the summer months when sweat losses are higher, it is also a good idea to add up to one ounce of salt (or a commercial electrolyte supplement) to the horse's ration, including the first post-exercise meal. 

Glycogen stuff
- Key in developing training and competition schedules is to avoid back-to-back hard efforts that might get to the "bottom" of the horse's fuel reserves. At least two days of light exercise between hard efforts is recommended.
- The rate-limiting component of full post-exercise recovery is replenishing muscle glycogen stores. This process seems to be quite slow in horses, taking as much as 48 hours for a complete return to "resting" levels. Research in other species indicates that early post-exercise feeding is needed for optimal glycogen replenishment, and it makes sense for us to apply these same principles to horses.
- Remember that glucose is needed for glycogen synthesis (not fat). This glucose will come from starch and sugars in the diet, so a typical sweet feed with cereal grains (the major source of starch) and some molasses is a good choice. After a hard, glycogen-depleting workout, offer small amounts (two to three pounds) of a grain concentrate ration as soon as 45 minutes after exercise along with good-quality forage. A second grain-concentrate meal can be given two to three hours later. An alternative is to feed a commercially available "carbo loader" product. These contain readily digestible sugars that can be used for glycogen synthesis. (A bit of Mel commentary: I learned at an AERC convention seminar that cereal grains do have a place in sports like thoroughbred racing where there is a lot of hard anearobic effort.  I wouldn't necessarily use this comment in this article to add cereal grains to my horse's diet without some additional research and what my alternatives might be, since I feel there is overwelming evidence against cereal grains in an aerobically working horse).

b. Good article at a vet doing some commentary on barefoot versus shoes.  (thank you Sharlene for posting this!!!!)
- I generally agree with everything that she says except:
"Taylor said if a rider is satisfied with his or her horse's performance level and soundness, making the change from shod to barefoot probably will not seem worth the time and effort involved. However, if a horse has hoof problems or struggles with foot lameness issues, making the switch could be well worth the hassle, she said." 

So......I would argue that the best candidates for going barefoot are those horses that already have good feet and are probably going in shoes just fine.  I didn't switch Farley out of shoes because she had issues - she had good hoof structure, didn't lose shoes, didn't pull shoes, travelled well.  In the end, the control I gained over having a barefoot horse versus being dependent on a farrier's schedule of a 6 or 9 week shoeing cycle was much less hassel. While having a lame horse or hoof problems is certainly a good catalyst for taking off the shoes - I think that saying that barefoot is more of a hassel than shoeing does a disservice to the practice. I think that this thought also introduces a bias into the perception of barefoot versus shod.  If only horses that have hoof problems are going barefoot - it isn't fair to compare the two groups (shod versus barefoot) in terms of hoof health and soundness.  Much better (IMO) to take a horse that has no problems in shoes and see what happens when they go barefoot and vice versa.  The discussion of whether a horse should/can/might go barefoot is different for the healthy horse with good hooves, than that group of horses with pathological processes in their hooves/systemic disease.

There's an awesome quote on the sidebar of this article that I really love that talks about the heel of the hoof: :)
"If the back half isn't right, you'll never get the front part right," she said. "Maybe the old adage, 'no hoof, no horse,' should become, 'no heel, no hoof, no horse?' "

4. Awesome hay feeder.  Saw this at one of my clients and was really impressed.  It's pricey, but if there was any way I could swing this and I had my horse at home, I would - the ability to feed seperate from when I wanted to go out and ride, or being able to feed my horse lunch is worth a lot.....

Here are some pictures I took of my clients, and the website.

 The hay sits on little shelves

 The programmer

 The door - she lets her horses hand out in the breeze way where the feeder is located, so she added a bar in front of the door so it doesn't get damaged when the horse leans on it.

 Batteries are in the top right hand corner.

Here's the website: http://www.highnoonproducts.com/products.html

Elytes on the breast collar

Rightfully so, one of my Dear Readers asked me to post pictures of my elyte system that was described like this:

1.  Wrap several layers of electrical tape around the syringe and attach it with one "go around" with a tab.  I positioned the syringe to the tip was up, so that the salt didn't fall out.  Not much sponge water got into it. To use, unwrap, give elytes, and then unwrap tape until you have sticky again.......and reattach.
==> wasn't  very nice.....

So.....This doesn't make a lot of sense.  :).  We shall blame it on being in my last week of school, and trying to make complete sentences too soon after a 50.....

First an overall picture.

 Yes, the breast collar is on the ground and not on a horse.  What do you want from me????????  Some sort of quality.

Use your imagination.

Now that you have the orientation of the breast collar, let's zoom in on option 1, which is shown on the off side of the breast collar (near the bottom). 

I've unwrapped the electrical tape so you can see the set up better.  Note that the syringe is positioned with the tip up.  Another option would be to get wire caps to close up up the tips - but I was out of time and couldn't find my stash of them, so my tips were open.  If the tips were closed, you could put the tip up or down without having to consider either the elytes being shaken out as you trot, or water getting into the syringe when you sponged.  Some water got into this syringe, but since I administer by sucking water in the syringe anyways, I decided it didn't matter. 

The electrical tape is wrapped around the syringe several times, before wrapping it around the breast collar, with a tabbed end.  To give the elytes, you would unwrap the syringe from the breast collar, give the elytes.  Even in the presence of water and sweat the electrical tape holds well to the breast collar, but once you unwrap it, sometimes it doesn't want to stick.  So the theory was to reattach the syringe, I could unwrap the tape from the syringe until it was sticky enough to reattach to the breast collar. 

In reality, I never used this syringe during the ride because my second idea worked so much better.  In fact, I wouldn't have even tried "option 1" if I had been able to find more of my syringe containers to set up this:

2.  Take bottom part of plastic that the syringe comes in.  Tape that with electrical tape to the breast collar.  Put syringe into this holster.  Put a piece of tabbed electrical tape (or perhaps in the future, velcro?) across end and on sides of holster.  Holster filled with some water, but didn't affect the elytes.
==> worked like a charm!

I think that  with the pictures, this is self-explanatory.  Using electrical tape I taped the plastic holder to the breast collar,  I then inserted the syringe into the holster, and used another piece of electrical tape across the top of it to hold it in. 

Even with lots of sponging and scooping, there wasn't a lot of water build up in the plastic holder.  In the future I would be nice to replace the top piece of tape with something more permanent, but I didn't have any issues with the tape during the ride, even late into the ride after it had been used. 

The best part of putting my elytes on the breast collar was not having to dig for syringes in my saddle bag - where they take up room, and have a tendancy to fall out.  They were accessible and easy to get to. 

Sweat patterns in horses

In the various discussions on hydration on this blog, I've mentioned a couple of "rules of thumb" that can be used when estimating dehydration in a horse. 

Here's some points that I posted here from a seminar at the 2012 AERC convention (and yes, I realize that I've harped and harped and harped on this subject for the last couple of weeks....)

• Dehydration under 5% can't be accurately identified without blood analysis. 
•  6-7% usually has some other associated problems
• A 12% dehydrated horse is about to die. 
• In school we were taught to determine dehydration by deciding whether the horse was mildly dehydrated (5%), moderately dehydrated (9%), or severely dehydrated (12%).  By taking the horse's weight in kilograms (~2.2 pounds per kilogram, I tend to use 400kg for the average arab that is 800-1000 pounds), and applying the % estimated dehydration, you can calculate the approximate amount of liters that the horse is deficient.  For example, a 5% dehydrated 400kg horse = 5%*400 = ~20 liters.  (3.8 liters per gallon, so 20L = 5 1/4 gallons of water) Thus, this horse needs to consume 5+ gallons over and above it's maintenance fluid requirement in order to rehydrate (FYI - average maintenance fluid requirement for adult mammals in in the neighborhood of 2-4ml/kg/hour, depending on size etc).
• Average endurance horse is 5% dehydrated - regardless of whether its a 50 mile or a 100 mile. (Some interesting theories such as after 50 miles the thirst mechanisms finally catch up, or the coolness of the night/slowing down helps etc.)
• Difference between tolerable dehydration and treatment is 2-3 gallons of water.  (it's really really easy to stuff 2-3 gallons of water into a mash with only a couple pounds of pellets!!!!)
• The difference between tolerable dehydration and “about to die” is 8 gallons of water.
• If you are a numbers person, using the math already discussed above.......here's how it works out: The moderately dehydrated horse (assume 9% and 400kg body weight) is missing 36 liters, or about 9 1/2 gallons of water.  The 12% (about to die) severely dehydrated horse is missing 48 liters or about 12 1/2 gallons of water.  
• Trailering loss is 0.8 gal per hour, 1% dehydrated per 90 min travel. Thus, 8 hour trip produces a horse that is 5% dedicated upon arrival (6.25 gallons low). --> these numbers were given in Dr. Susan Garlinghouse's seminar. 

A very important point to notice above is that everything addressed above about a horse that is 5% dehydrated or more.
--> clinically dehydration isn't seen until a horse is approximately 5% dehydrated.  At this point they are considered "mildly" dehydrated. 

TheHorse.com recently published an article on some recent research that looks at estimating fluid losses in horses BELOW that 5%!!!!  I think this is very exciting - because although I think all of us as horse people can make a good guess on whether our mounts are dehydrated or not, these types of tools and parameters provide us with even more information that we can use to evaluate our horses BEFORE they end up 5 gallons deficient. Because once they show clinical dehydration, you are only gallons of unconsumed water away to the level of dehdyration needing treatment. 

There is a reason that we hammer hydration hydration hydration in this sport.  The better we can educate ourselves, the better decisions we can make on the rides when it comes to our mounts. 

This research is very preliminary (hasn't even been printed yet - just epublished, but is going to come out as a future article in the Journal of Animal Physiology and Nutrition) and it's unclear how results may differ from the study population and conditions, but it's interesting to evaluate. 

Here is the link to the abstract in Pubmed

Here is a link to the horse.com article

Here is a link to the full article from the Journal

It has been added to the Mendeley Journal club (see sidebar of the blog). 

Additionally, here are some other articles that might interest you!  These are older papers (late '90s) but still good information if you want to learn more about the subject.

Comparison of three methods for estimation of exercise-related ion losses in the sweat of horses
- Pubmed

Sweating. Fluid and ion losses and replacement
-Pubmed

Sweat fluid and ion losses in horses during training and competition in cool vs. hot ambient conditions: implications for ion supplementation.
- Pubmed 
- Article
- Added to journal club

PS. This was NOT my electrolyte post :)  Just a random article that I saw that I wanted to share with you.